The Amateur Surfers’ Diary 📔

Did you get a surf in today? Log your session here with us - the best/worst wave you caught, the skill you unlocked, the sea life...

1
My surf diary began in 2020 in Baja California before the pandemic hit. We stayed right on Cerritos beach (near Todos Santos) and surfed there as well as in the surrounding beaches, which were even more gorgeous and the waves even better
Cerritos Beach
2
One of the sunset surfs i took in Baja was at Playa La Pastora - I was out there with one other person catching little crumbly waves when he started doing something strange.... hopping off his board and diving deep into the ocean over and over again. It was dark-ish out and I'm sure he couldn't see anything, so I was a little confused but didn't want to stare at him. Just let him do his thang.
PLAYA LA PASTORA
3
I spent a few weeks just as covid shut down the US in Santa Cruz surfing at pleasure point - an amazing and very crowded wave
Pleasure Point County Park
4
After I made it back to the East coast, Peyton and i headed down to North Carolina and could surf beach break just across the street from our rental home
Topsail Beach
5
Peyton got really into surfing here and express ordered a wavestorm to the rental home so she could shred
Topsail Dunes Homeowners Association
6
We drove south to South Carolina where I was able to surf on folly beach and isle of palms
Folly Beach
7
When we returned to NYC, we surfed through some incredible swells at rockaway
Rockaway Beach
8
We got our friends in on some surfs
Rockaway Beach
9
And did a few early bird sessions before work
Surfside Park Apartments
10
Iggy is always stuck watching us from the shore
Rockaway Beach
11
Peyton and i headed to the outer banks in North Carolina in October and kept surfing almost daily there
Shad Street Public Beach Access
12
Peyton got a new board and dramatically improved while we were there
Starr Light 413
13
Back in Brooklyn and we just got another incredible sunny session in yesterday (Sunday) with friends. 3-4 foot waves and offshore winds 😍
Brooklyn
14
Amazing surf today at my favorite surf spot on the planet ! And a guy got this pic of me too
Honolua Bay
15
Surf selfie - day 2 in Hawaii. Smaller waves today, but still had a blast !!
Honolua Bay Lookout
16
Final surf of the trip just completed. Heading home now.
Honolua-Mokuleia Bay Marine Life Conservation District
17
Thanksgiving day ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️surf - blitzed over the hill to Santa Cruz in my smart car to get in on the double overhead action with hundreds of others
Pleasure Point County Park
18
I got a surf in at my old stomping grounds yesterday - half moon bay. I went out in Montara Beach where the waves were whompers, and this photo was the sunset at another surf spot - Princeton Jetty
Montara State Beach
19
Itty bitty waves and chilly ass water! But hey, I got a surf in
Princeton by the Sea Park
20
G morning from Malibu! Drove down yesterday and surfed rincón, but forgot to take a pic so now I’m posting up from hereto keep my diary intact
Topanga Beach
21
Surfed One of my favorite spots with Peyton on NYE!
Leo Carrillo State Beach
22
Had our first surf of 2021 on NY Day to the south side of the manhattan beach pier, a beachside town where I used to live. Got some really fun ones 🌞
Manhattan Beach Pier
23
In the last 6 days, I’ve surfed 7 times here. One 2 a day, then morning sessions before work for the last week. I’m already feeling myself progress. Cant get enough water time !
Playa Guiones
24
Been waiting on some good close up shots of the waves here so you can scope them! We are surfing every day and our muscles are sore :)
Playa Guiones
25
The beaches opened back up for sunset and I got a surf in that was very fun and beautiful. Peyton took this glamour shot of me 🤙
Playa Guiones
26
Yew!! Fun one from today. Was praying I’d get barreled lol
Playa Guiones
27
Koooksta rica over here some days
Playa Guiones
28
Caught a party wave with Peyton today 💓
Playa Guiones
29
I’ve been working very hard on my cutbacks - toe side is hard for me !
Playa Guiones
30
I’m taking in so much sun here so I’m trying out my surf hat game to help with the exposure
Playa Guiones
31
I almost got barrelled yesterday...instead I got a mild concussion 🤕 very “Blue Crush” if you ask me 🎥 🎶
Playa Guiones
32
Since the big swell came through, the waves have shrunk and we are enjoying the reprieve by riding some small ones
Playa Guiones
33
I’ve been sitting out this weekend because I got a little sinus infection. It’s been almost unbearable! I’m so addicted to surf.
Playa Guiones
34
Strong offshore winds tonight made for some big wave faces and long rides - a guy on the beach got this nice shot of me
Playa Guiones
35
The wind was ham today! One of the windiest surfs of my life. Offshore spray in your face for a few seconds with every wave. Peligroso
Playa Guiones
36
Surfed at a new beach this morning - rode there on my ATV to a black sand beach with crystal clear water
Ostional
37
Instagrammy portrait of us before a very bad session (waves were horrible, kai decided to pass when he got to the beach but Pey and I went in anyway and tried hard to make it fun for ~30 mins)
Guiones Beach Club - Guard House
38
Working on my cross stepping in these small waves 🌊
Playa Guiones
39
A highlight so far in the facial expressions category - my mouth is as wide open as I’ve ever seen it lol
Playa Guiones
40
Sunset series lol. If you’re in Costa Rica, look for the kook in the bucket hat - that’s me !
Playa Guiones
41
The “cheat 5” - for those of us not quite good enough to “hang 10”
Playa Guiones
42
Pulling up in a small tube - here in Playa guiones, Costa Rica they are tiny little almond shaped tubes and you have to get high on the wave to sneak in. I eventually got back slapped by this wave